Wines of Hungary UK‘s Furmint February tasting is a highlight on the London wine calendar and this year’s event introduced Furmint’s ‘friends’ – the other grapes that are the core of Hungary’s wine offer.
A masterclass by Caroline Gilby MW showed the range and diversity of the headline grape alongside Hárslevelü, SárgamuskotáSzamarly, Olaszrizling and Juhfark (no sniggering at the back, it’s Hungarian for ‘sheep’s tail’, which the bunches of grapes resemble).
From Balaton in the south west of the country to Tokaj in the north east, Hungary’s topography and terroir change constantly but the over-riding descriptor is volcanic. Millennia of volcanic activity set the baseline flavour profile for Hungarian wines: steely minerality and high acid. This can, of course, be influenced by microclimates, altitude and aspect, as well as winemaking.
While Furmint is linear (delivering in a multitude of styles from steely dry to super lusciously sweet), Hárslevelü is kinder, more round and forgiving, thus making it a great blending partner.
Sárgamuskotály (the intensely aromatic and grapey Muscat à Petit-Grains also known as Muscat Blanc) delivers light-bodied fragrant white wines with aromas of honey and rose petals.
Olaszrizling (no relation to the German variety, and planted widely across the Carpathian region) is another aromatic variety popular in Balaton, with notes of pear and honeysuckle that are perfect for chilled summer drinking (a popular choice for spritzers in particular).
Wherever you are in Hungary you are never far from a sweet wine, from late-harvest through to botrytis-influenced 6-Puttonyos Aszú and the Demetervin Joy 2021 from Mád in Tokaj, delivered dried apricots and stewed quince with the sweetness and acidity in perfect harmony.
In the tasting room more than 20 producers showed their wines and a Bubble Bar dispensed 13 of the best Hungarian sparkling wines from multi-award winning Sauska Brut and Rosé to the very popular organic Pet Nat from TR Wines.
Among my favourites: Zsirai Szent Tamás single-vineyard Furmint, Harsányi dry Szamarodni (an almost sherry-like wine with complex flor character), Füleky single-vineyard barrel-aged Kabar and Patricius Katinka, a playful late-harvest Furmint with notes of caramelised orange and white chocolate, my idea of liquid dessert heaven.
Among my discoveries:
the wines of Karoly Kolonics from Hungary’s smallest wine region, Somló, whose 2022 Juhfark spends 12 months in 1,500l Hungarian oak barrels. Leafy and herbal on the nose, fresh and juicy on the palate with yellow plum and orange zest, it finishes on a long, dry, salty note.
Gilvesy Cuvée St George 2022 from Balaton, a ripe and richly textured blend of Furmint, Riesling and Olaszrizling – showing the power of being in the company of good friends.
More on great Hungarian wines and best food pairings here and here
© Linda Galloway 2024