My knowledge of English wines is, I realised, biased towards the southeast (Kent, the Sussexes) so it was good to visit the Vineyards of Hampshire tasting with a great show of still and sparkling wines from top producers. Literally on London’s doorstep (an important consideration for me, who struggles to function outside Zone 2), many of these wineries can be visited in the summer months for cellar-door tastings and meals in beautiful surroundings.
English sparkling wine has always had a reputation for searing acidity and a distinctly lemon-focused citrus palate but wait! A few things have happened in recent years (not just in England but across the wine-making world), as vineyard management and winemaking has improved to take advantage of a changing climate, with warmer, longer growing seasons (riper grapes = less acid, more rounded wines), and this has also opened up the possibilities for wineries to produce still as well as sparkling wine of great resonance.
Our south-eastern latitude and bedrock of slate and limestone align with Champagne and a generally cool (but getting warmer) climate are perfect for the Champagne varieties Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meurnier.
The beauty of sparkling wine has always been the requirement for under-ripe grapes with good acidity and fairly neutral flavours that don’t compete with the bubbles. Riper grapes round off the acidity and make the wines more accessible, more food friendly and all-round more enjoyable.
For some wineries, the answer to a cold, unforgiving harvest is time; an extended period of post-fermentation maturation on lees that gives the wine time to mellow, for the acid to soften and secondary characteristics to develop.
Some wineries hold back an allocation of reserve wines for blending, to even out unkind vintages. Exton Park has a ‘liquid library’ of reserves to call on, a veritable chef’s larder of seasoning that can be used to adjust the highs and lows.
I thoroughly enjoyed my trip round Hampshire, starting with The Grange’s three wines. Their 100% Pinot Noir White from Black has a delightful savoury salinity and is a perfect match for shellfish.
Danebury is a grande dame of the Hampshire scene, their pocket-sized seven acres (2.5ha) were planted with German varieties in 1988 and the Cossack Vintage, a blend of Auxerrois Blanc and Rulander, is creamy and elegant with trademark freshness.
What treat to taste the new Louis Pommery England Rosé (launched at the tasting), and hear from export manager Hadrien Pats about their pride in stewarding the estate with unique terroir and stunning views across the South Downs. A commitment to sustainability means sheep in the vineyards, and honey bees. The England Brut was aged on lees for 27 months before disgorgement, and shows flavours of ripe apple and pear. It can be found on wine lists from Sydney to Norway, but also retails in the UK for a very reasonable £32.
Exton Park, with its ‘liquid library’ of reserve wines, allows the blending skills of winemaker Corinne to shine. The RB 28 is a very elegant Blanc de Noirs(48 months on lees) that shows aromas and flavours of sweet yeasted pastry with a subtle mousse and mellow charm. A sneak taste of the as yet unreleased 2014 Blanc de Noir revealed salty, savoury notes and exuberant froth – definitely one to watch.
Raimes 2018 Blanc de Blancs highlighted what a very warm vintage can achieve, with a rich flavour profile of peachy fruit and dosage reduced to 5g/litre to accommodate the riper fruit.
Black Chalk’s impressive Rumour Has It, low-intervention still Chardonnay was a revelation, as was their sparkling Wild Rosé 2020 with delicate mousse and floral nose. Their tasting room sounds like a great place to spend a summer afternoon.
Hambledon is another estate with a great track record, and their Classic Cuvée brings well-rounded flavours of caramelised apple that made me think of tarte tatin. The Première Cuvée is more structured with just 2.5g dosage, showing an elegant jawline and lean purity. The Première Cuvée Rosé with 88% Pinot Meurnier in the blend carries its red fruit character very well.
Hattingley’s limited-edition Kings Cuvée in both white and pink will be hard to come by but definitely worth seeking out. The Entice Bacchus, a 10.5% abv dessert wine loaded with fragrant, raisins intensity, was a perfect note to end on.
© Linda Galloway 2024