In every wine region there are preferred sites with slopes that favour the sun or soils that give the wine terroir-defining notes that speak of location, location, location.
In Burgundy, for example, that would be the Grand Cru vineyard of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, which produces the most expensive wines in the world.
In the Eger wine region in north-east Hungary it is Nagy-Eged Hill, which shares a cooler Continental climate with Burgundy and also has the advantages of altitude and aspect, as well as limestone and marl soils.
In the foothills of the Bükk, the Grand Cru terroir of Nagy-Eged Hill benefits from the daytime heat of the central Plains and the cooling night air from the mountains, also known as diurnal range, which is hugely beneficial for winemaking as the warmth helps ripening and sugar development, while cool nights stabilise aromas and acidity.
As the Hungarian wine industry began to recover from its Soviet-era blight of high production and low quality, the neglected vineyards of Nagy-Eged Hill were reclaimed, and among the first to stake their claim was @nimrod.kovacs, who started planting in the highest reaches of Nagy-Eged Hill in 2005 (as well as other acclaimed sites in the region).
Known for his benchmark Eger reds, SKY is 100% Furmint from the upper reaches of Nagy-Eged Hill 350m above sea level. He describes it as ‘a precious gift from the Grand Superior terroir’.
Fermented in stainless steel and aged on lees in Hungarian and French oak, there is ripe stone fruit (peach, apricot) and limestone minerality on the nose and palate.
Dry, refined and elegant with good texture and notes of toasted nuts, spice and fruit balanced with zippy acidity and a not-insubstantial abv of 14.7% this is a wine to be savoured at the table.
My chilled glass of SKY was matched with a summery tomato risotto and crispy-skinned sea bass. It was a perfect pairing that picked up on the sweetness and acidity of the tomato and cut through the oiliness of the pan-fried fish skin. I could equally have served it with a creamy goat cheese tart, prawn salad or roast pork.
Furmint is famous as the grape of sweet Tokaji, one of the world’s best dessert wines. Now, it is grown all over Hungary and produced in dry and sparkling versions too. Increasingly available on London restaurant wine lists where it represents excellent value for money, it is definitely worth trying next time you see one.
© Linda Galloway 2022