Although Piedmont is well known for outstanding punchy reds like Barolo and Barbaresco, the indigenous Cortese grape of Gavi is the cornerstone of the region’s prestige white wine production and a perfect match with the local coastal cuisine.
Geographically, the Gavi DOCG identifies strongly with its close neighbour Genoa and can trace its winemaking history back to 972.
Lyrically described as “where the breeze (marin) from the Ligurian Sea meets the snow of the Appenines”, the vineyards of Gavi have iron-rich red clay soils in the north and white marl and sandstone rich in microelements and marine fossils in the south, contributing unique elements to the wines. Altitude also plays a role and Gavi is known for its crisp acidity and aromatic, peach, herbal and floral notes.
The Gavi appellation is very closely regulated by the Consorzio Tutela del Gavi and much has been invested in clonal selection, yields, indigenous yeasts and limiting the use of insecticides and pesticides in the vineyards. Biomonitoring stations for bees, environmental initiatives on climate change and harvest fluctuations are hallmarks of a DOCG that speaks of excellence and quality-over-quantity of production.
In general, the advice is to drink Gavi while it is young, but a recent masterclass tasting of 8 vintages from 2011 to 2019 (excluding 2017) proved that Cortese is a variety that ages with elegance and varietal definition, showing complex tertiary notes. Some of the wines we tasted, including two organic reservas from the charismatic Rosina sisters at La Mesma, are aged sur lie in concrete tanks and bottle-aged before release.
One of the liveliest conversations in the room, unsurprisingly, was around food pairings (it was late, we were hungry!), and beyond the more obvious local seafood and creamy pasta dishes that were suggested were sushi and roast chicken. I drank mine with a glorious cheese and onion tart, olives and charcuterie.
One of the youngest winemakers in Gavi is Tiziano Arecco, was at the Gavi World Tour event in London to showcase his third vintage for the family estate, Cascina delle Monache. Arecco studied winemaking at university and spent time at wineries in New Zealand and Australia before returning to Gavi to convince his family to allow him to make the wines himself rather than selling the grapes to others. His aromatic fruity wines have clear, crisp definition and are not yet available in the UK but his focus and drive make him one to watch for the future.
A note on the beautiful Gavi label by artist Riccardo Guasco, above, which depicts Princess Gavia embracing the landscape. The wine is selected by a panel of sommeliers each year to represent the essence of the Gavi DOCG on the international stage, and an artist is commissioned to design the label.
© Linda Galloway 2022