From the visual splendour of the ever-changing Cape landscape to the slopes (and slopes and slopes) of serried vines, there is a lot to take in. The architecture old and new, stunning cellar-door wine tastings and mesmerising meals, the contrast between the white-hot sun at noon and the cool depths of shaded interiors.
There are other contrasts that also draw the eye in South Africa. Alongside the established and visible wealth, there is poverty and deprivation.
As an international visitor you might feel unease, and be looking for signs that the economic balance of power is finally shifting, that the People of Colour in this rainbow nation are taking their places at the table.
The winelands are certainly much changed in the 30 years since the official end of apartheid. The spirit of invention, creativity and endeavour, and the commitment to transformation and advancement, are everywhere to be seen, the positive energy is palpable.
I heard (and saw) so many good news stories of formerly indentured farm workers (and their children and grandchildren) who are now stakeholders in the new economy, who have a say in the running of businesses and can plan their futures on a more stable footing.
I met winery owners with very deep commitment not just to the welfare of their workers (often carrying the visceral scars of generations of social disadvantage) but to sharing the wealth and prosperity of their enterprise.
So I very pleased that some of my favourite South African wineries have been recognised with awards recently.
I wrote about the Bosman phenomenon (Another Victory for Wellington) a while back, after meeting CEO Petrus Bosman in London. In October I visited the farm and saw the 8th generation vision of Faith, Hope and Love in action. Their newest operation, making stellar Chardonnay and Pinot Noir on the Hemel-en-Aarde ridge at Hermanus, is also attracting a lot of attention as a destination cellar door.
Last week they were handed the Platter Editor’s Award for Winery of the Year, recognising the current wines as well as their track record and as ambassadors for South African wine. Chief winemaker Corlea Fourie accepted the award. Petrus summed up the pride in their achievement: “This award is for all of us, every single worker in the vineyards, the cellar, the teachers in the crèche, the nurse in the clinic, the technologists in the laboratory, the accountants in the office, the security at the gate … we’re all in this together.”
My other pick of the year is Carinus Family Vineyards, whose 2022 Polkadraai Heuwels Chenin Blanc was awarded the coveted 5 stars by Platter. The Carinus cousins Danie and Hugo are 5th generation grape growers with some of the best sites in the Western Cape. You can read my interview with Danie here.
And if you’re visiting the Cape winelands this summer (the holiday season is in full swing) and want to see a world of SA wine that is more inclusive and accessible, Tuanni Price at Zuriwines will take you on a guided tour and introduce you to some of the black, indigenous and people of colour (BIPOC) who are winemakers, owners and operators in the industry. Tuanni has a relaxed approach to wine tasting too, advising with humour and passion, without snobbery or intimidation. We had a great day with her in Franschhoek and you should do the same.
© Linda Galloway 2023