What a line-up at London’s 8th Furmint February, organised again this year by Wines of Hungary UK. The theme was inspired by LiberationTardive’s mission to celebrate wines with an ability to age, and the versatile Furmint grape was on top form.
A masterclass led by two Masters of Wine, Caroline Gilby and Richard Bampfield, explored incredible back vintages with extraordinary longevity – from a 1988 Aszu 6 Puttonyos from Grand Tokaj to my personal favourite, the Úrágaya 2003 from the iconic Szepsy winery.
For last year’s Furmint February 7.0 I prepared a food-and-wine pairing masterclass with Gilby and sommelier Klearhos Kanellakis, and several of the wines on show were included in this year’s lineup.
Karoly Kolonics (pictured above), a fourth-generation winemaker known as ‘The Artist of Somlói’, is rightly regarded as a genius of modern Hungarian winemaking, and it was great to taste his Furmint vintages from 2016, 2018 and 2022 (paired last year with root vegetable crisps, labneh, lamb’s lettuce and air-dried beef). But when I asked him for his favourite (like choosing a favourite child) he picked a 2024 Harslevelu (not strictly part of the tasting).
Sparkling Furmint with age made an impressive showing, especially the 2018 Methode Traditionelle from Carpinus which has three years of bottle ageing. Beautifully balanced with a gentle but persistent mousse.
A 2009 dry Furmint from Füleky made a strong impression, rich and complex with herbal, nutty notes and a long, rewarding finish, as did the Patricius Tokaji 2005 with stunning, trademark minerality.
An increasingly rare find these days is a dry Szamorodni, a beautifully complex flor-driven wine made from the final, botrytised must at the end of the harvest after pressing. The Harsanyi is a textbook example. A bit of everything that the vineyard delivered (Szamorodni translates as ‘as it comes’), in sweet and dry formats but the dry, for me, is exquisitely intense, with sherry-like oxidised notes, honey, beeswax and a warm, generous finish. I wish there was more of it about.
More on great Hungarian wines and best food pairings here and here
© Linda Galloway 2026